Journey to the Origin
Shaolin – Wudang – Beijing
The Wing Lam 2002 Study Tour
Stories of traveling to the birthplace of Chinese martial arts often
begin by describing the feeling of a special honour that accompanies
a visit to the land of Kung Fu and TaiChi (among others), and this
travel journal is no exception. Indeed, in many ways it feels akin
to a pilgrimage; a sacred journey to seek out the origin of an activity
into which we pour so much of our time and dedication. In early
July of this 2002, a group of intrepid students joined Sifu Wing
Lam in a study tour to China, visiting the Shaolin Temple, Mount
Wudang and spending some time enjoying the capital city of Beijing.
The drives behind undertaking such a journey are many. Often it
is the human need, born in the psyche, to feel a greater connection
to a place, an event or a tradition by making the pilgrimage and
spending time to visually and spiritually absorb the 'sacred' site.
Those of us on this tour were exceptionally fortunate to be able
to add a study component to our journey, training with life-long
devotees in the very heart of these historic locales. We were also
especially privileged to be led by Sifu Wing Lam, who's expertise
and care allowed us to gain the most knowledge and growth we possibly
could from the trip. Thank you, Sifu.
Rather than lead you along a direct, day-by-day account of our
travels (which could prove quite tedious for there were many days!),
this journal will attempt to break the trip down by events and observations,
providing what I hope will be a more coherent impression of the
trip as a whole.
Our band of adventurers
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| Shaolin
GrandMaster Liang Yiquan and Sifu Wing Lam |
Our arrival at San Francisco airport indoctrinated us with a lesson
that would serve us well for the remainder of the trip: be flexible.
Due to a typhoon, our flight had been delayed by five hours, which
would force us to play catch-up when we landed in China. We didn't
let this little postponement get us down, however. On the contrary,
we used it as an opportunity to learn more about our travelling
companions. Finding a wide corridor along the back of SFO airport,
we proceeded to demonstrate for each other our respective styles
of martial experience. Besides the Northern Shaolin system, our
tour included Hung Gar, Yang and Sun style Tai Chi, Hapkido, Mantis
Style Kung Fu, Kempo and Wing Chun practitioners. In total, there
were 32 of us accompanying Sifu Lam across the Pacific, some who
were local to San Francisco and others from lands themselves distant,
including Bermuda and Switzerland.
A Brief Introduction to China
Ask one of the participants what China was like, and the most likely
answer you will receive (in a joking tone) is that it was hot. Certainly
the constant on our trip, temperatures ranged from 35-40C (95-105F)
with relative humidity at 95%, give or take a percentage. Add the
blazing sun, still managing to bore down through the ever-present
grey haze above, and it certainly made for a 'scorcher'. One drank
a lot of water to cope.
This heat was but one of the many layers that made China was a
remarkable place to experience. Despite any research and reading
that may be done before visiting, actually traveling the country
by rail/bus and visiting the small villages and big cities is still
a learning encounter and the only way to truly understand the country.
Describing China and its intricacies, even only those that could
be gleaned in two short weeks, would fill an entire article in itself.
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| Shaolin
Monks Demonstration |
Comments can be offered, however, on our prime window of China,
that of the various trains and busses we took across the land. China
possesses a very extensive and well-run train system that criss-crosses
a vast part of the country. One of the most popular and efficient
modes of transportation in China, the trains are run on amazingly
strict schedules. During our stay we experienced all manner of onboard
accommodation, among them day-rider seats (sets of 4 recliner-style
seats facing each other), hard sleeper (six beds--2 upper berths,
2 middle berths and 2 lower berths--in an open room with no door
towards the corridor) and soft sleeper (four beds--2 upper berths
and 2 lower berths--in a closed compartment with nice sheets, blankets
and carpeting). We spent a great deal of time riding the rails to
reach our far-flung destinations, accruing a 6h, 17h and 23h ride.
If one has the time, riding the rail is a safe and comfortable way
to see the country and experience its vastness, as well as an opportunity
to interact with the locals (including, in our case, one pair of
young girls who taught us some Chinese). The stations can, however,
be a bit of a nightmare if one is unused to a sea of people. Finding
the right departure lounge through this mass of people can be quite
the challenge, and tended to cause a lot of stress (likely the most
stressful times of the trip) to our tour leader and attendant tour
guides.
Road travel is considerably more of an escapade, for lack of a
better word. While "super-highways" are the exception,
the roads are populated by an eclectic mix of vehicle types including
3-wheeled delivery carts, horse-drawn carriages and even vehicles
kit-bashed from farming equipment, as well as cars, busses and large
transport lorries. While this mix was more heavily weighted towards
the more "normal" cars, trucks and busses in Beijing,
the rules of the road were pretty constant throughout. Lanes and
traffic lights were generally a suggestion more than a rule, and
the horn was an essential car accessory (as often for simple warning
as much as for "I'm faster, please get out of the way").
Despite the chaos this brought, traffic nevertheless flowed quite
well and, save one or two death-defying instances, we (and those
around us) traveled with no problems. Being aware of the surroundings
is definitively a key skill in Chinese driving.
While we were the ones out to visit a foreign country, we often
found ourselves being a tourist attraction (or at least a bonus
attraction). As noted in several travel guides, the Chinese people
will often stare at anything, especially unusual events or something
out of the ordinary. To have an especially large group of foreigners
in their midst was, then, quite the cause for great excitement.
No harm was ever meant by this, of course, even when we found ourselves
literally surrounded by a mob at the train station, all gawking
at us. While this fascination with our troop was more pronounced
in the remote regions of the country, it was still evident near
Beijing, where one small group of us were stopped no less than a
dozen times in the span of 5 minutes by people asking to have their
picture taken with us. At the major tourist spots, that seemed to
be the action of choice: having your picture taken with a westerner-a
request we all obliged quite happily.
In the end, our schedule for the 16 days abroad would turn out
to be quite different from the original itinerary, planned 6 months
prior. Not counting our inbound flight delay, with what could be
arranged for training, travel and hotel, our schedule morphed quite
a bit and ended up affording us more time at Shaolin and Wudang,
at the expense of some time in Beijing. All in all, it was a near-perfect
mix of training, tourism and travel.
Continued >>>
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